Here’s your trivia question for the day: If Yellowstone, established in 1872, was the nation’s first national park, which one was America’s second national park? Hint: It’s not Yosemite and it’s not in the west. Answer: Mackinac Island, Michigan, wins the honor.
With a flourish of his pen, President Ulysses S. Grant turned Mackinac Island (pronounced Mack-in-aw) into a national park in 1875. Set in the Straits of Mackinac that connect Lake Michigan and Lake Huron, the scenic and historic region was a popular summer retreat in danger of being destroyed. National Park status and Army administration protected the area until 1895 when it became Michigan’s first state park.
Arriving by ferry, it’s a step back into the 1880s as far as transportation goes. There are no automobiles on the island because in 1898 the residents decided the new-fangled contraptions were noisy, smelly and scared the horses so they banned them. This could possibly be one of the best things that ever happened to the island. The result is a village of narrow streets among quaint homes, exhaust-free air and no noisy traffic.
The lack of automobiles doesn’t seem to bother anyone. Horse-drawn carriages transport guests from the ferry landing to the Grand Hotel. The gentle clip-clop of the horses on the rock-paved streets sets the mood for what is to come.
The large, elegant, white Grand Hotel built in 1887 on a bluff overlooking Lake Huron draws wealthy visitors. In the olden days many stayed all summer enjoying the cool breezes. The hotel’s 600-foot long front porch is the longest front porch in the world. In the 19th century, the hotel was hailed as the “Gem of the Great Lakes” and visitors dressed for tea then promenaded on the porch.
A carriage tour of the island includes an interesting narrated history. Over 80% of the island is within Mackinac Island State Park with more than 70 miles of roads, trails and footpaths. Besides the carriages, several shops rent bicycles and one rents electric carts for the disabled.
Originally built by the English in 1780 during the American Revolution, Fort Mackinac sits on a high on bluff 150 feet above the Straits of Mackinac with a commanding presence. With white painted rock foundations topped by gray, weathered pointed logs, it looks much as it did in the 1880s.
By 1796, it was safely in American hands only to be re-claimed by the British in the first land engagement of the War of 1812. After the British defeat, Fort Mackinac again became American property. The buildings are original to the fort and the Officer’s Stone Quarters is part of the old fort built nearly 230 years ago.
Kids love the fort’s hands-on history. They listen to soldiers and ladies in period costumes telling stories, or dance to a 19th century tune or even come to attention when the bugle sounds. With a stiff wind blowing in from the lake, kids and adults gather around for the firing of the cannon.
Flowers are an important part of Mackinac Island. They are everywhere. The Grand Hotel alone plants 125,000 bedding plants including 2,500 red geraniums, its trademark flower. A ton of bulbs are planted so more than 25,000 tulips and 15,000 daffodils bloom every spring. The rest of the island is just as colorful. The ten day Lilac Festival is held every June when the hundreds of lilac bushes burst into bloom (June 4-13, 2010.)
The geology here is also interesting. In ancient times, Lake Algonquin covered all but the center of the island. Left behind by the receding ocean are limestone formations like Arch Rock and Sugar Loaf along with Devil’s Kitchen, a large sea cave formation.
The Great Lakes American Indians considered the hump-shaped island to be a sacred place. According to their legends, Mackinac Island was the first piece of land to appear after the Great Flood. The shape reminded them of a turtle’s back and they named the island, Michilimackinac meaning “Land of the Great Turtle.” Explorers, fur traders, fisherman, and soldiers struggled with the tongue-twisting name until by the 1820s it was shortened to Mackinac.
Most visitors come to Mackinac during the summer. Ferries from Mackinaw City or St. Ignace make scheduled runs from May through October. Only 500 people stay on the island all winter, but you still can visit for great cross-country skiing. Arnold Line Ferry offers a limited boat schedule through January 2nd and then the ferries stop for the winter. You can get to the island by Great Lakes Air that flies a 6-seater plane year around.
Winter in Mackinac sounds fantastic, but cold. Usually the water between Mackinac Island and St. Ignace freezes in February. When this happens, some lucky – or unlucky – persons venture out on the ice to test its thickness. If they arrive in St. Ignace safely, they call back and the residents mark a road. All the old Christmas trees are piled at British Landing and the villagers “plant” these on the ice along the safe route outlining an “ice bridge.” Snowmobiles come and go as long as the ice bridge lasts. This can be from four days to up to two months. The ferries usually start up limited service in mid-April; a sure sign that spring is on the way.
In 1847 Horace Greeley said, “A stroll at Mackinac is worth a day in any man’s life.” Mackinac deserves, at least, several days just to enjoy its serenity and natural beauty. After all, a place that was named America’s second national park, rates a first class visit.
Originally published on www.highonadventure.com
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