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Camino de Santiago

Jaca, on the southern side of the Pyrenees, has for centuries been one of the first Spanish cities pilgrims reached after crossing the forbidding mountains. The coming year, 2010, is a jubilee year for the Camino de Santiago, when St James’s day (July 25th) falls on a Sunday.

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I take back all those unflattering things I’ve said in the past about Bilbao. That stuff about how it’s the “the Pittsburgh of Spain.” Yes, it’s an iron city. Yes, the Ría that runs through it is brown. And yes, it’s annoying, if not panic-inducing, that the Guggenheim Bilbao is now listed in 1000 Places to See Before You Die. But the city that inspired a planning cliché, “the Bilbao effect” (build a Big-Name-Architect museum and you’ll soon be polishing up your rusting economy with wads of tourist dollars), is more than all that.

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